The pearl trade: a blend of tradition, quality and modern colours

A pearl necklace is one of the few pieces of jewellery that almost everyone recognises immediately. The image is clear: white pearls, evenly strung, classic and elegant. Yet it is precisely this familiar image that falls short.

At Inhorgenta Munich, it becomes clear just how multifaceted the world of pearls actually is. Between rare natural products, modern interpretations of jewellery and highly specialised trade, a market is emerging that is far more complex than its understated appearance suggests. Schoeffel is one of the industry’s most established names. The company has been in existence since 1921 and is now run by the fourth generation. Experience plays a central role in the pearl trade in particular, as no two pearls are alike. Origin, surface, lustre, shape and colour determine how a specimen is valued and whether it will later become part of a piece of jewellery or even a collector’s collection.

Schoeffel and the personal procurement of pearls

During the conversation, it quickly becomes clear that the procurement of high-quality pearls has little to do with anonymous mass-produced goods. Pearls are not simply ordered from a catalogue, but are personally selected. Every pearl that is later sold has been examined directly beforehand. The trade operates on an international scale. Some of the stock comes directly from farms, whilst other parts are sourced via Japanese companies that sort, prepare and process the harvests for different markets. Not every farm automatically produces the qualities or colour ranges that are in demand in Europe. This is precisely why personal selection remains crucial. Purchasing trips regularly take us to South-East Asia or regions such as French Polynesia. It is there that the decision is made as to which pieces will later feature in collections or be sold as one-offs. At the same time, this highlights an important difference from many other areas of jewellery: pearls are created through natural processes. The dealer can select, but cannot fully control, what nature produces.

Lustre and nacre as indicators of quality

To the untrained eye, a pearl often appears simple. Experts, on the other hand, look for very specific characteristics. Of particular importance is what is known as lustre – that is, the intensity of the inner sheen. It is precisely this point that is emphasised repeatedly in conversation. A highly lustrous pearl usually has a thick nacre layer. This layer influences not only the visual effect but also the durability. The more intense the lustre, the higher the technical quality of the pearl is generally considered to be.

The difference is immediately apparent when high-quality and less distinctive specimens are placed side by side. Whilst dull pearls tend to look flat, high-quality pieces possess depth, reflection and a special radiance. Typical criteria for selecting high-quality pearls are:

• intense lustre and strong light reflection
• surface as uniform as possible
• vibrant colour and depth
• harmonious shape and proportion
• thick nacre layer for long-term durability

Tahitian pearls from French Polynesia: a rare phenomenon

The significance of rarity becomes particularly striking in the case of a Tahitian pearl presented during the conversation. This specimen comes from French Polynesia, is perfectly round and measures more than 20 millimetres. Such sizes are considered exceptional even in the international trade. The dealer describes the pearl very cautiously as a possible global rarity. It is precisely this cautious phrasing that highlights just how rare such pieces actually are. By his own estimate, only two or three pearls of this quality appear each year.

It is interesting to note that such pearls are often not processed at all. Instead of becoming part of a necklace or a ring, they end up in collections. There, they fulfil a similar role to rare works of art, watches or classic cars. Economically, too, this sector operates in a league of its own. A single pearl can command a six-figure sum. At the same time, our interviewee points out that the rarity of such pieces is often greater than that of many luxury items in comparable price brackets.

Modern pearl necklaces for everyday wear and business

Alongside exclusive one-off pieces, the role of classic pearl necklaces is also changing. In the past, they were often regarded as purely formal jewellery. Today, pearls are interpreted in a much more modern way. The term ‘Twenty Four Hour Jewellery’ comes up in conversation – that is, jewellery that accompanies you throughout your daily life. Pearls are not only meant to be worn on festive occasions, but should also work in professional settings or in casual outfits.

This is also shifting the design approach. Jewellery pieces appear lighter, more modern and more versatile. Pearls are combined with contemporary settings or used in a deliberately minimalist way. At the same time, the entry point into the product range remains comparatively broad. Alongside exceptional rarities, there are collections priced in the range of high-quality designer fashion, making them significantly more accessible.

New colours from different atolls and farms

Another key focus of the discussion is the colour diversity of modern pearls. Whilst the classic white pearl necklace remains a staple, it has long been complemented by other shades. Green, brownish and bluish variants are on display. Pink and salmon tones are also featured. Many of these colours are relatively new to the market and only develop under specific natural conditions. The specific atoll on which a pearl farm operates is crucial here. Water conditions, the environment and biological factors significantly influence the pearls’ subsequent colouring. This results in differences that are not artificially created, but stem directly from nature. It is precisely this unpredictability that the dealer describes as one of the most fascinating aspects of his profession. No buying trip is ever the same. Every harvest yields new shapes, colours and qualities.

Pearls: somewhere between jewellery, a natural product and a collector’s item

The pearl occupies a special place within the world of jewellery. It is not cut like a gemstone nor cast like metal. Its beauty is formed entirely in nature. This is precisely what gives rise to its diversity. Pearls can appear classic, modern, understated or spectacular. They range from jewellery suitable for everyday wear to high-priced collector’s items. At Inhorgenta Munich, Schoeffel therefore showcases not just individual pieces of jewellery, but an entire product range. Behind every pearl lies its origin, selection, natural conditions and artisanal assessment. It is precisely this combination that makes it clear why, despite its long history, the pearl has lost none of its fascination.